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A Tailor’s Guide to Wearing Black Tie for Your Wedding

Are you planning a wedding with a black tie dress code? Wondering where to start with your own sartorial decisions? Who better to guide you through getting dressed than experienced tailor, Adrian Barrows. Here’s his guide to wearing black tie for your wedding… 

What is Black Tie?

I like to describe ‘black tie’ as a gentleman’s uniform. Much like a school uniform, it appears professional, creates a cohesive look and ‘levels’ those wearing it. The historical concept behind this is that the gentleman should not take the eye from the lady.

So, what does a black tie outfit consist of?

1.    Evening Suit

Did you know black tie garments were originally made in midnight navy blue? The ‘black’ in black tie bears no relevance to the colour of the suit, only the tie colour. Prior to modern lighting, midnight navy looked darker beneath incandescent lighting than black which tended to result in a yellow tint. These days midnight navy is still relevant, and some deem it more modern, but for the most part evening suits are made in black.

Evening suits were traditionally made using a Barathea or a Mohair wool. Barathea is fundamentally a plain weave, but its broken twill weft makes it distinguishable. Originally developed in the 1840s, it became a staple for black tie a few decades later.

The styling of the jacket can be single or double-breasted. The single-breasted usually has a single button whereas the double-breasted will show six, fasten two. On the single-breasted, we always allow a ‘link’ button. This sits behind the facing of the jacket on 2-inch thread, allowing the wearer to comfortably keep the jacket buttoned up whilst sat down.

The lapel will always be a black satin. The same goes for the pocket frames or ‘jets’ found on the waist of the jacket along with the buttons too. You would not usually find a flower hole on this lapel. If you’re wearing a flower for the wedding, don’t worry too much. A pin or magnet can be used to secure it to the lapel.

Over the heart, you will find a breast pocket. This is where your white silk handkerchief will reside ready for your partner should they require it to dab tears from their eyes.
Traditionally, you would find side slits or ‘vents’ on the back of the single-breasted jacket to allow the flap to splay open when sat down. The double-breasted jacket would be plain with no vents.

Your trousers should not have belt loops but ‘side adjusters’. These are buckles found on the side of the waistband, allowing you to pull the waistband tighter if needed. Braces are another option. They take a little getting used to when being worn for the first time, but the wearer will instantly see a sharper drape to the trouser. Evening trousers should also bear the satin braiding on the outside seam of the leg.

The weight of the material is another important factor to remember. I see the material as the bricks to a building. The overall look of your evening suit will stem from the initial cloth choice that is made.

In the UK, a 12oz wool is seen as a four season fabric – meaning it will work for all seasons. However, the becomes a little more complicated when we understand we all run at different temperatures. If you are intending to be wed abroad, the weight of the material should be adjusted accordingly. A June wedding in Lake Garda requires a different weight to a November wedding in the Highlands!

However, this where an expert opinion is valid – the heavier the fabric, the better the drape. This means the suit hangs in a sharper manner. The lighter the suit fabric, the less of a drape. The question you must ask yourself is, how uncomfortable are you prepared to be for the drape and elegance versus light and comfortable for a less sharp result?

2.    Evening Shirt

An evening shirt, as opposed to a lounge shirt, should not have buttons on show. In their place, you will traditionally find ‘dress studs’ – small round domes made from Onyx that do the same role as buttons. You will sometimes find a fly fronted shirt, where the buttons are hidden behind a placket.

Usually, you also find a ‘bib’ on an evening shirt. This is a secondary fabric (either pleated or a Marcella cotton) which sits on top of the main body fabric. Cufflinks should be worn on an evening shirt so please ensure you have a double cuffed sleeve.

3.    Evening Shoe

Evening shoes are made from a highly varnished leather known as ‘patent’. Patent leather shoes should be a lace up, low heeled shoe with a leather sole. These are very traditional and should only be found within this arena.

Pair your patent leather shoes with black silk calf length socks. The uber traditional would wear a sock garter. After all, according to etiquette ‘a gentleman should never bear skin’!

4. Bow Tie

This should be a traditional black silk bow tie. For those prepared to watch a YouTube video and do things properly, a self-tie bow tie is the way forward. It will take a little patience and perseverance, but it’s worth it. Otherwise, you can opt for the simpler method – the pre-tied bow tie.

Terminology & Tuxedos

The term ‘evening suit’ is used a lot instead of black tie. This relates to the fact black tie outfits were traditionally not worn before 6:00pm. You must remember a lot of terminology has been around since a bygone era. But don’t worry – there are no more outfits you need to plan for!

In America, the evening suit is known as a tuxedo or ‘tux’ for short. If you receive an invitation to wear a tux, this is simply an evening suit and therefore the outfit above is perfectly adequate.

Standing Out from the Crowd

Nowadays, we do see some grooms being lured away from more traditional outfits to stand apart from the crowd. I always refer to the ‘image’ – the one photograph from your wedding that captures the day perfectly and is selected for the lounge wall and the screensaver. A stranger should be able to look at this image and point out the newlyweds from the wedding party and indeed the guests.

It is possible to achieve this with a black tie dress code. You could wear a three piece suit while the others wear a two piece. You could opt for a contrasting jacket but stick to the other rules for black tie. Or you could choose different flower colours for yourself and other members of the wedding party.

As a tailor, I will always approach these subjects from a traditional angle rather than as a fashion trend. You should feel free to use the ideas and advice above, but clothing is a form of expression, and I won’t be offended if you choose to ignore them. I firmly believe you and your partner are the most important people at your wedding. As such, you should decide what’s best for you.

The Bespoke Tailor, Adrian Barrows, has been in the tailoring industry since 1996. In that time, he’s seen every aspect of tailoring, from working on the shop floor to designing garments for high end corporate accounts and celebrities. Providing exceptional service and a truly memorable experience, he now designs and creates world class men's tailored suits across the UK and the rest of the world.
www.thebespoketailor.co.uk

Val x

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